Zips Tape and flashing

I taped around the straps coming through the roof. Here is a set of videos that explain it:


Some friends came over, and we very quickly put tape on all the wall seams:
Thanks, Canadians!


Here is a night shot with most of the windows cut out:


Lately, I've been doing a lot of research. Windows, siding, trim...
I need a flexible tape for the window sills. I got some "Tite Seal" flexible tape from the big green box store. It is an asphalt-based flexible tape. When I opened it, it didn't seem very sticky. Now, maybe it would stick if I had rolled it hard against it, but just pressing it against some wood, it stuck about as well as a post-it note. I want this to really work well, so I got some DuPont FlexWrap NF. Professionals on youtube use it. Like this guy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BCkZXAuxY74 (long)
Or this promo video: DuPont Product Placement video

I'm planning on using rubber sheet roofing. I want a curb around the edge to keep the dirt of the green roof on top. At the bottom edge, I plan to have a perforated pipe, that drains through gaps in the curb, every 8 feet. Here is a cross section of some curb designs. I think I'll use the one shown in the left side of the picture, with a pipe like in the right-hand side:


The rubber will go up over the curb, and then drape down on the other side, where it will go over some flashing (drip edge).

Window cut-outs and taping sheathing

We put the Zips System tape over the joints in the sheathing, starting with the roof, which we got done before the rain a couple days later.



Here I am taping some steel strapping that i have going through the roof. I'll fold them over a "curb" on the edge of the green roof, and nail them down. They connect to studs that are strapped to the trailer frame. (or are the end of a long strap that connects to the trailer frame). It took me until the last one to figure out the best way to get the tape around the straps. The key is to make a "gusset" in the same plane as the strap, so that you don't ever have a corner where water can just go through one butt splice, and get in.






We have been cutting out the windows, and we finally got them all done.
The easiest way I found to cut out the windows (without a roto-zip) was to drill a bunch of holes from the inside, around the edge of the window. Then, connect the dots with a chalk-line or straight edge. Then I cut it with the battery-powered saw. Note that in the picture below, I am overreaching, and we shouldn't do that, because it is dangerous:


This window was over a joint in the sheathing, so it came out in two sections:


The kitchen/loft window is cut:



Test fitting the half-moon window. I traced the window on a scrap of sheathing, and cut that template out. Then I tacked that to the inside of the sheathing where I wanted the window (centered in the framed box). I traced that, and then drilled a hole every inch or so. Then from the outside, I connected the dots with a reciprocating saw. The window fit!
I had to be pretty accurate at each step, because I was transferring the shape about 5 times.